DAWN AT DARJEELING
Darjeeling owes its grandeur to its natural beauty,
its clean fresh mountain air and above all, the smiling resilient
people for whom it is a home. Known for its natural splendor,
Darjeeling's best gift to its visitors is the dawn of a new day.
The mountains awaken first with a tentative peeking of the sun. A
steep ride, five kilometers from Ghoom, or an invigorating walk up a
steep incline, leads sun worshippers to Tiger Hill. The air is
chilly with darkness and damp. To the east, a dull orange sun
emerged painting the sky with brilliant strokes of magenta, gold,
orange and fuchsia. The snow capped Everest, Kabru, Kanchenjunga,
Jannu and other peaks slowly emerge from slumber to start a new day.
The sun worshippers gasp at the magnificent sight. As the fog lifts
in the slowly penetrating sun, the town gradually comes alive.
Amidst brewing of tea, the sing-song Gorkhali which is the local
dialect, rises and falls like music.
CLIMATE
The best time to visit
Darjeeling is from March-May or September-November. The rains which
start by May end are heavy downpours making living conditions cold
and dreary. In winter there is a drastic fall in temperature from
the summer's 15 to 25 degrees centigrade to 2 to 10 degrees in
winter.
ETHNICITY AND FOOD HABITS
The people of the region
Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Mirik consist of the Gurungs from
Western Nepal, other Gurkhas races from eastern Nepal, Bhutias and
Lepchas from Sikkim and Dukpas from Bhutan. People from the plains
have also settled here. The local fare is rice and meat curry and
momos which are steamed dumplings, and of course, chow, the locally
made noodles. This generally accompanied by chhang, a locally brewed
wine made from millet or the jaad which is made from fermented rice.
The Gurkhas are staunch Hindus and celebrate all Hindu festivals
with equal dedication. But Dussehra is the most popular Gurkha
festival
.
SITES TO VISIT
No visit to Darjeeling is
complete without a visit to Ghoom which is 6 km away from the main
town.
The hillock is dominated by the famous Yiga Choeling Monastery
which has 15 images of the Maitreya Buddha. Belonging to the yellow
hat sect, the monastery contains many ancient palm leaf and paper
manuscripts in Tibetan script. The Museum of Natural History is
where one can see a fine collection of Himalayan animals, reptiles,
birds and insects. If flora is what one enjoys, then Llyod Botanic
Garden is the place of interest. It has a marvelous collection of
alpine flora and orchids.
Padmaja Naidu Himalayan
Zoological Park is the only center in India for the breeding of the
rare snow leopard. The Ussurian tigers and the Himalayan black bear
are also among its attractions. Neighboring the zoo is the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute established in 1954 by the then Prime
Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, in the wake of the conquest of Everest.
Tenzing Norgay was its first Director and Advisor till his demise. A
kilometer from the zoo is the Darjeeling-Rangit Valley ropeway.
Considered the longest in Asia, it is a thrilling ride with splendid
views. If one is looking for souvenirs, then the Tibetan Refugee
Self Help Center. It produces excellent Tibetan crafts like carpets,
wood and leather work. Established in 1959 after the Dalai Lama and
his followers fled Tibet, it is a haven for ethnic Tibetan art.
PLACES AROUND DARJEELING
KALIMPONG
Across the river, Teesta lies
lush Kalimpong. The road weaves lazily up a steep incline to
suddenly open up to an unexpected panorama. The first sight to greet
the eye is the steeple of the Mac Farlane Church. Once the
headquarters of a Bhutanese Governor, the word kalim means king's
minister and pong, the stronghold. It is also called Kalimpong or
the black spur by the locals. However, the meaning that is popularly
accepted is the Lepcha translation of the name which is the ridge
where we play as the local tribesmen used to organize field sports
here. At an altitude of 1250 meters, it has an area odd just 3.5
square miles with an approximate population of 40,000. Its rolling
meadows are as yet untouched by tourism.
Prominent amongst the places
of interest is a school, Dr. Graham' s Homes which was founded by
Dr. John Anderson Grahman in 1900. This has been built on the slopes
of Delo Hill, three kilometers from the town. For a bird' s eye view
of the picturesque place, one has to go to Durpin Dara, an
observatory point atop a hill from where one can get an
awe-inspiring view of the mighty Himalayan ranges. Numerous
monasteries dot the area among which the Pedong monastery and
Thongsha Gompa are the oldest. Another monastery of interest is the
Tharpa Choling Monastery constructed in 1937 by the Yellow Hat sect
which is situated at Tirpai Hill at a distance of two kilometers
from town.
About 4 km from town towards
Teesta is located Kalimpong's famous Swiss Welfare Dairy. It was
set up many years ago by a Swiss missionary, father Andrea Butty.
Cheese, butter and other dairy products of this center are in great
demand and the quality is comparable to the finest that is imported.
The visit to Kalimpong won' t be complete unless one spends several
hours at the two bazaars. One on the main road, the other near 10th
mile. It is a unique experience to see villagers turning up in their
local costume at the bazaar on weekly market days to sell their farm
products
.
MIRIK
Set in idyllic surroundings,
Mirik is the place for those seeking peace and tranquility. At an
altitude of 1967 meters, the climate is cool and temperate. The
Sumendu Lake at the bottom of Mirik Spur is the most dominating
feature reflecting the magnificence of the eastern Himalayas. The
lake is 1.2 kilometers long and is fed by perennial streams. Riding
on the colorful boats or crossing the lake over an artistic bridge,
leads one to a charming path through forests on the other side.
Fishing is a popular past time here.
Mirik is also almost
completely surrounded by some of the best tea gardens of the region.
It is also the largest producer of oranges in West Bengal. The
orchards are on a spur two kilometers from Mirik. Tourist cottage
constructed from locally available material have been constructed in
the dense forest and provide all modern facilities for a comfortable
sojourn. The DGHC Tourism (Tourism Deptt. of the Darjeeling Gurkha
Hill Council) organizes conducted luxury coach tours from Darjeeling
to Mirik and back on the same day during the tourist season.
WHERE TO GO SHOPPING
Darjeeling' s traditional
promenade, the Chow Rasta, bustles with the increasing tourist
influx and is the throbbing heart of Darjeeling with restaurants and
shops lining the way. It has famous eating joints, known especially
for milk shakes, pastries and scrumptious patties. At certain
studios one can buy the most fascinating photographs of the snow
capped mountains that surround Darjeeling, and portraits of locals
in traditional attire are souvenirs worth buying. Walking down a
countless flight of steps, past colorful vendors, one will come to
the lower bazaar. It is a more traditional and lively bazaar filled
with a jostling melee of people.
TREKKING TRACKS
Darjeeling was the first hill
region in India where organized trekking was first conducted by Dr.
Hooker in the 1840s. The breathtaking panoramic views of Everest and
Kanchenjunga have been alluring thousands of nature lovers from
different parts of the world since then. Treks in this region are
organized through both high and low altitude areas.
The most popular of treks is
the one through high altitude areas across the Singalila range in
Darjeeling. The trek starts at Maneybhanjang (2134 m), goes to
Meghma (2900 m), Toughu (3070 m), Gairibas (2621 m), Sandakphu (3636
m), and Phalut (3600m).The fourth and last day is the return trek to
Darjeeling which may be taken along the along the same route or via
Ramman, Rimbick and Bijanbari.
Another fascinating high
altitude trek is in the Kalimpong region from Relli, Pankhasari, and
Neora to the highest point in the areas, area, Rochella (3,400 m).
From here it is a steady descent to Tangta, Jhalang along the
foothills to Samsing. Exotic varieties of Himalayan flora, bird, and
wildlife can be seen along this route. Low altitude treks are along
trails in the lower regions which are less vigorous and are
recommended for tourists who like to amble along at a leisurely
pace. The Kalimpong-Relli trek through golden paddy fields, the
Kurseong-Namsu trail through tea gardens and the Kurseong-Mirik trek
are the main trails through low altitude areas. For tourists with
less time at their disposal, one day trails are the best from of
treks for viewing the entire region. The recommended routes are the
ones from Darjeeling to Kurseong through the Old Military Road,
Darjeeling to Singla, Darjeeling to Bijabbari and Darjeeling to
Tiger Hill. The last of these treks is most popular as once at Tiger
Hill (8,482 ft), one can stay overnight to wake to a wonderful
sunrise the next morning.
The best time of the year to
undertake this region is April-May and October-November. It is
advisable to carry one' s own provisions. Trekking equipment can be
hired at nominal charges from the Youth Hostel, as well as some
travel agencies.
HOW TO REACH
There are flights from
Calcutta to Bagdogra which is 90 kilometers from Darjeeling. The
nearest railhead is Siliguri. The Toy train runs from New
Jalpaiguri/Siliguri. There are taxis available from Bagdogra,
Siliguri and New Jalpaiguri. If one has never been to Darjeeling and
believes that real holidaying lies in the enjoyment of experience,
then one should take the mini train from New Jalpaiguri. Completed
way back in 1881 by Franklin Prestage, the mini train is the best
way of traveling to the old Gurkha station of Darjeeling.
SPECIAL FEATURE: JOURNEY BY TOY TRAIN
The narrow gauge railway
lines fondly called the toy train extend to over 4,500 kilometers
mostly in the hilly regions of India. Among these one of the best
known is the 83 kilometers long, 610 mm gauge toy railway
spanning the gorgeous terrain between Siliguri and Darjeeling.
Nestled in the serene Himalayan splendor, the zigzag railway passing
through a variety of foliage, linking Siliguri in north Bengal with
Darjeeling, is a marvel of miniature rail engineering. The train
girdles along streams and tea gardens on the way to Sukana, up a
spur of the Singalele range from where the ascent of the line
begins. The train strikes the first spiral or loop followed by the
second in proximity of the 20 kilometer post, an amazing engineering
feat, practically a double loop, for the rise from Rungtong to
Tindharia. The third loop is about 22 kilometers away and lends an
enchanting peep into the valley below with the Bhutan range in the
east, the Teesta river and its Tiger island in the south-east. The
sensational point of the fourth spiral, the Agony Point, is reached
outside the Tindharia station.
The scenic beauty along the
rail line is a thing of joy forever. From those stalwart sal trees,
the railway track twists in and out of ravines, the tall cotton
trees, the buttressed semul palms, the giant bamboo all entwined
with creepers and loaded with ferns and moss. There are fig tress,
oak and chestnut trees, the birch, the maple brambles and orchids,
some of them interspersed with walnut trees and laurels until, in
the vicinity of Cheem, the center of the Buddhist monastery of the
Yellow Sect, there is that glorious glimpse of primroses, magnolias
and rhododendrons. This luxurious vegetation is topped with sublime
landscapes of snowy heights, more than a dozen peaks standing aloft
above 6,000 meters the renown Kanchenjunga and the mountains of
east Nepal, Sikkim and Tibet.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotels abound in Darjeeling.
Besides the International Youth Hostel, there are more recently
opened resorts as well. There is a hotel which boasts as the place
where Jinnah met his wife whom he courted and married soon after.
Many of the old villas and estates that passed into Indian hands
once the British left have been converted into hotels. Hotel
Shangrila which is built along the main promenade, Chowrasta, is
typical of the traditional pagoda style architecture. It also houses
a travel and trekking agency.
